Despite the value of a nice large “ten dollar hole” (see On Planting Fruit Trees, Part 1), there’s a catch: Don’t be tempted to set the tree too deeply. In 1835, Mr. C. Spencer, of Muskingum Co. Ohio presented this problem to The Ohio Farmer, and it was reprinted in the Yankee Farmer on April 27, 1835:
"Another error frequently committed, is in setting the tree too deep in the ground. The roots should always be placed within the upper soil. Some twenty years ago, two farmers in this neighborhood, who procured their trees from the same nursery, planted each an orchard in similar soil. The one set his trees with a hoe, placing them very shallow in the ground, the other, with his spade prepared a hole about fifteen inches deep, for the reception of his. The latter orchard made but little improvement for some three years, while the former proceeded immediately to thrive and grow. On examination it was found, that the roots of those which were planted deep, remained perfectly stationary in the cold clay, while a fresh set put forth from the body of the tree."
Mr. Spencer’s advice is even more critical today, 140 years later. Many of our fruit trees are actually a combination of two trees. That is, many commercially grown fruit trees are comprised of a scion or bud graft (of the fruit variety you want) grown upon a hardy rootstock of some other genetic source. When planting, it’s important to be sure the graft union is set above the soil surface. If you’re new to planting trees, you may want to try using a tree planting board:
This old easy-to-make tool was used by the Heirloom Orchardist to get his orchard trees lined up perfectly. But it also works as a guide to set each tree at the appropriate depth (perhaps Mr. Spencer used one?). Today’s Heirloom Orchardist is fortunate to have numerous durable tree support and protection tools at his/her disposal
